Abdullah was in high spirits. He was marching forward towards his
long cherished Goal of journeying across
the Empty Quarter. He had been joined by a
dozen Arabs on this journey at Dulaiqiya;
there were four men waiting to join his
party farther south, taking the number of
people in his team to nineteen. There were
thirty-two camels for the journey and
between them - they carried a store of
food and water that would last them for
the next three months. Dates and rice
would be the principal diet on this
journey, but they also carried among other
things, salt, pepper, cinnamon, butter,
tea, sugar, cardamom, and onions.
Abdullah had done little riding on camels to
prepare himself for the journey. He felt
that a short ride on the first day would
be wise. When they pitched their tents at
the end of first day, he immediately felt
something was wrong with him. The weather
was extremely cold and he lay terribly
stiff by the campfire unable to move. His
companions piled him with cups of hot
coffee. He got up but he could hardly
walk. He staggered into the arms of one of
the Arabs and fainted. He was unconscious
for a few minutes and his friends told him
later that his face had turned yellow and
they thought he was going to die. They put
him to bed, and he went straight to sleep.
Abdullah woke up the next day morning
refreshed from the sleep, without any ill
effects from the previous night whatever,
and they resumed the journey.
The month of January was extremely cold in the
desert. The thermometer had recorded a
temperature of five degrees of frost. The
water skins of the travelers were frozen
hard and they had to lay them by the side
of the campfire to thaw the ice before
they could make coffee for all. The sand
beneath was so cold that it seemed to burn
tiny holes beneath their feet like red-hot
needles. However, within a few days it
became unbearably hot once again.
It was also the beginning of the Holy Month of
Ramadan and the whole party agreed to
fast. From an hour before dawn to sunset,
they fasted for thirty days. But, it was
only five among the group of nineteen,
which included Abdullah, that fasted for
thirty days without a break. The rest had
at various times had abandoned the fast
midway, a privilege that had been granted
to the travelers by the God, most High, of
exemption from the full observance of the
fast. During this period, the travelers
survived on breakfast at sunset and the
predawn meal at 4 a.m. The menu was rice
and dates during both these times and an
occasional hare captured in the desert,
which was divided carefully into tiny
fragments between the nineteen of them.
They were penetrating farther and deep into the
desert with each passing day, crossing the
low-lying salt plains, searching for oases
and reported ruins until they arrived at
the outpost of Jabrin, the farthest edge
of Arab civilization in the southern
sands. Here, they were greeted by an old
Arab, Jabir ibn Faisal, living with his
family in tumbled down huts, like
sentinels at the end of the world.
Jabir and his family were the last human beings
that the traveling party had seen outside
their own group for 53 days. Jabir
welcomed them by hosting for them a dinner
by killing a young camel for meat, typical
of the traditional Arab hospitality. He
also presented them with a dog that
remained with them throughout the journey
and helped them hunt for an odd hare in
the hostile desert in which they traveled.
It was at this outpost, where the actual
crossing of Rub al-Khali would begin.
For days, they traveled relying for their water
supply on wells, which in many cases were
covered deep in the sand and completely
unrecognizable to any but the keen eyes of
the Arab guides and trackers in the group.
During the journey, Abdullah never wasted
an opportunity to collect specimens of
fossils and stones to be sent to London
for evaluation and examination by experts.
Earlier he had sent some specimens along
with old man Jabir to Hofuf and given him
money to buy presents for his family
living in the lonely outpost of the
desert.
All the while, Abdullah kept searching for the
mysterious hidden city of Wabar. The group
was heading southward and had only vague
evidence of the existence of the city.
During this time, the travelers have
crossed the beds of two ancient rivers
that had long since dried up. However, a
third prehistoric river was yet to be
discovered. Legend had it, that the
prehistoric remains of the ancient city
had been built on the banks of such a
river. Abdullah had heard about this city
from the past that lay hidden deep in the
desert. Based on the reports reaching him,
he had marked two probable sites on the
map with information that had been
supplied to him.
At last, they were near to the ancient city of
Wabar, about which the ancient Arab
historians had told so many strange
stories and legends. The group had set
camp a little distance away, where they
expected to find its ruins. The next day
they marched further into the desert
heading in the general direction of the
ruined city, when suddenly one of the Arab
guides in the group caught the first
glimpse of this fabled city, the ancient
capital of King Ad Ibn Kin’ ad, in which
he had partied with his companions and
concubines until they had drawn upon
themselves the wrath of Heavens. A fire
had descended upon them, wiping them out
to the last man and leaving the city in
ruins. The ruins of the city lay near,
what appeared to be twin volcanic craters.
On closer examination, Abdullah came
across a fragment of metal, which was
obviously a part of a large meteorite.
This led him to conclude that the craters
of Wabar were not volcanic in origin and
they could have been caused by an impact
of a large meteorite. The large meteorite
was probably buried deep inside the sand
nearby.
From here, Abdullah pushed deeper into the
desert. The Arab guides, who accompanied
him, were getting restive and they longed
to return to their homes. The country had
become more forbidding with the passing of
the days and the Arabs were reluctant to
journey to the dreaded mountains of
Hadramaut, which they believed was a place
of death. The Arabs used every argument
that they could think of to make him see
reason and turn back to where they had
come from and they constantly whispered
among themselves. But Abdullah remained
unmoved. With a combination of tact and
persuasion, he brushed aside their
arguments and at the same time increased
the pace of their journey towards its
proposed destination. The Arabs had been
charged with the task of serving Abdullah
well on this journey, comply with all his
requests, and bring him back in safety.
They knew very well, what would happen to
them if they failed.
They were
penetrating farther and deep into the
desert with each passing day, crossing the
low-lying salt plains, searching for oasis
and reported ruins
Nevertheless, Abdullah pushed them onward - they
reached Shanna, which marked the beginning
of the last part of their long perilous
journey across the desert. From here, they
would be traveling across the waterless
desert, where they feared thirst and
death. Some of the guides even threatened
to leave his side during the rest of the
journey. But Abdullah would not yield to
any demands to return back and ultimately,
his resolute will won the argument. The
group decided at last to make a dash at
once across this great waterless tract to
Sulayil.
The Arabs were weak and disheartened with
hunger. None of them had undertaken such a
journey before, and no human being had
ever attempted to cross the Empty Quarter
from side to side, they declared
truthfully. Abdullah knew that his
companions were suffering, for he suffered
with them. They had not eaten anything
since they had left Shanna, four days
back, and the hunger was extremely
painful. Conditions grew worse, and the
nerves became frayed as the travelers
pushed forward on their journey. Even the
animal life in the desert seemed to have
disappeared and there was no game to hunt
for meat. The camels, too, began to show
signs of weariness due to the rigors of
the journey. They went on still farther
into the no man’s land, which had been
untouched by rain from the past several
years. Plant life also had disappeared;
the few remaining bushes had been stricken
to death because of lack of water for
their sustenance on the desert.
Abdullah and his companions had traveled one
hundred and forty miles into the desert
and had more than one-third of their
journey behind them. He knew that a steady
effort would see them through the very end
of their journey only if those
accompanying him cooperated in the task
ahead of them. Regardless of the
consequences, he decided to push forward
on the fifth day. There were no signs of
life throughout the day save for the
presence of one brave solitary raven and a
tiny desert warbler. At midday, the camels
gave out and collapsed due to sheer
fatigue. They would simply have to find
some water. The whole party decided to
retreat to the wells of Naifa, one hundred
and twenty miles away. Here Abdullah had
his first drink of fresh water since he
had left Hofuf.
Then suddenly it rained. Rain fell with thunder
and lightning. Whirlwinds caused by the
storm caused the sand to be flung across
the landscape in terrible black columns.
Typhoons swept down their camp uprooting
their tents and burying them in the sand.
On March 5, the traveling party prepared itself
for the last dash that was needed across
this waterless waste to complete the
journey across the desert. They eagerly
began their trek that would lead them to
human habitation. The march across the
desert revealed that it was the worst
section that any of them had passed
through until now. There were no signs of
plants or animal inhabitation in this
lifeless sand. The birds too had
disappeared. Even the rare desert animal
that had chanced upon this waterless
wasteland had met its death in the sands,
with its flesh dried on its bones. The
carrions of the desert did not dare to
venture into this part of the desert to
pick on its bones.
There were still a few more days left to
complete the journey, but the worst part
was yet to come. The dash across the great
gravel plain of Abu Bahr was like nothing
that any of them had ever seen before.
Even the Arabs, who for centuries had been
the dwellers of the desert, could not
foresee that this part of the country
would be devoid by all types of
vegetation. These were the most critical
days that they had encountered on the
whole of their dreadful journey.
The party had started the great push at 2 a.m.
in the morning, on the 11 th of March
1932. At 10 p.m, nearly twenty hours later
they were still on the march, pressing
their animals to their outmost limits. The
animals were already run down due to the
desert heat and hunger. Notwithstanding
the fact that the animals could collapse
anytime now, the group had relentlessly
pushed forward until they were on the
brink of human civilization.
The next day, the travelers found the
badly needed fodder for their animals and
refreshed themselves from a stream that
ran from the mountains. They sensed
victory at last, for suddenly animal life,
which had been non-existent for the last
three hundred miles of their journey,
began to reappear. They had to still cover
a distance of fifty miles to complete
their journey, but the going was paradise
compared to the privations and
difficulties that they had face in the
journey that they had just been through.
At the end of their journey, they were
back in civilization.
On the morning of March 14, the party was
welcomed by the mayor of Sulayil as the
first people who had found their way
across the Empty Quarter. For many the
journey of Abdullah and his companions
would mean nothing. It was not a story
that would be carried in the front-page
headlines of newspapers of the world.
Nevertheless, this story should be told
for it was one of the greatest
achievements in the history of adventure
and exploration of the modern times. It
was the triumph of human spirit for
Abdullah had achieved the unimaginable by
crossing the Rub al-Khali. He had pushed
hard even when his Arab guides lost their
nerve and wanted to turn back. In doing
so, he became the first man to lay bare
the legends of the desert, which had been
hitherto been passed around as oral
traditions among the people of Arabia. In
the process, his name became a household
legend among those who knew this great man
and his magnificent adventure across the
desert.
|