He was a man of many talents. He had mastered the Arabic language
and its many dialects. Apart from this, he
had mastered the Persian, Urdu, Pushtu,
and Baluchi languages too. He mixed easily
with people, moving freely in their midst
in the bazaars, his keen eyes noting down
customs and characteristics, observing to
the smallest detail of their speech and
habits. He could recall incidents with
uncanny accuracy with his extraordinary
powers of concentration.
Harry St. John Bridger Philby, son of a Ceylon
tea planter and former head boy and the
captain of Westminster School, had a
brilliant academic career in Cambridge and
in the Indian Civil Service. When the
First World War broke out, he was the
secretary to the Governor of Bengal in
Calcutta. The war gave his great chance of
putting his extraordinary abilities that
he possessed to test. His superiors had
also recognized his abilities and he was
called upon to do extraordinary things.
New assignments and responsibilities were
thrust upon him and he began a series of
mysterious disappearances, away on the
call of duty.
Philby’s habit of disappearing from his job for
long spells of time grew upon him at that
time. He had already won a reputation for
himself before the war, his knowledge of
people of the eastern countries was
unique, and beyond compare. Even as an
officer with the Mesopotamian forces in
charge of the Intelligence Department he
would suddenly vanish on some strange
errand that required secrecy, a resolute
will, and nerves of steel.
He traveled through different parts of India,
Baghdad, and Tehran. However, the Land of
Arabia had won the heart of Philby. As far
back as 1918, an Arab who saw him passing
through Ta’if declared that it was
impossible to distinguish him from the
group of Bedouins accompanying him. His
command over the Arabic Language, his
mastery of the Arab customs and his
general bearing, made him pass easily as
an Arab. There was only one difference,
this man had noted, that set him apart
from the rest were his blue eyes and his
feet were a little bit cleaner than the
usual desert travelers.
It was his amazing knowledge of the Land of
Arabia that brought him into direct
contact with Whitehall, Lord Curzon, and
the War Cabinet in London. They had
summoned him for his view for the
political events that were taking place in
the Land of Arabia. He had talked to them
of one Ibn Saud as the man destined to
lead a united Arabia. The policy makers at
the Whitehall listened to what he had to
say and in the end; they told him that he
was mad for coming to them with such an
outrageous political forecast.
Philby had smiled at them. He left with them the
address of his hotel. He had told them
that they could find him there when they
wanted him. He did not have to wait for
long. The news wires of Whitehall began to
crackle and hum. It told them that Ibn
Saud, the Arab Chief, was sweeping across
the country with his band of soldiers like
a naked flame. A major part of Arabia was
now under his control. Philby was
immediately summoned to the Foreign
Office. Lord Curzon saw him there and at
the end of two hours; Philby had packed
his bags and left for Arabia.
In Arabia, Philby sought the audience of
Ibn Saud. He was on familiar territory. He
knew the land of Arabia and its people
better than they knew themselves. However,
this time he was a man with a mission. He
was here on the direct authority of His
Majesty’s Government to represent their
interests and he had come here to
negotiate with the great leader of the
people of Arabia. The Arab Chief was known
to be a man of character, vision, and
above all a man of principle. In London,
he had predicted that Ibn Saud would march
one day towards Makkah. The British
Government wanted to offer King Ibn Saud
an annual subsidy of sixty thousand
English Pounds to keep the peace.
He embraced the
Religion of Islam and decided to become
a trader in Jeddah.
John Philby came to be known as Haji
Abdullah.
John Philby |
The day of meeting with the king proved to be
one of the most important in Philby’s
life for it would change the course of
his life forever. It was the beginning
of a lifelong friendship between the
Arab King and the Englishman, without
which the great journey across Rub al-Khali
would have never taken place. On his
part, Philby had been greatly impressed
by the king. He had already a high
opinion of the abilities of Ibn Saud as
a leader and the meeting only served to
strengthen that impression. It paved the
way for a second official meeting with
the king, at the end of which Philby
would resign from his job to become Haji
Abdullah the Arab trader.
Back home, Philby’s exceptional gifts, and
knowledge of the Land of the Middle East
did not go unrecognized. Honors came his
way. Philby was made advisor to the
Ministry of Interior of Mesopotamia in
1921. A year after that he was appointed
as Britain’s representative in
Transjordania.
It happened exactly as Philby had predicted
during one of his meetings in the Foreign
Office in London. Ibn Saud had conquered
the holy land of Makkah al-Mukarramah. The
Foreign Office was worried. Their desire
for peace in Arabia had not been achieved.
There was only one thing that had to be
done immediately. Philby had to be
recalled and his services would have to be
used to deal with this new situation.
Back in Arabia, Philby sought a meeting with the
king. It was immediately granted to him.
Ibn Saud saw him in his tent and the
meeting lasted for several hours. Nobody
knew exactly, what had transpired between
the two. When Philby emerged out that
night from Ibn Saud’s tent, his first act
was to cable London his resignation of all
the offices he had held, in the process
foregoing his ranks, promotions-everything
that he had achieved during his lifetime.
He embraced the Religion of Islam and
decided to become a trader in Jeddah. John
Philby came to be known as Haji Abdullah.
He gave up everything for the sake of his
religion, the security of his career, his
home, and his religion and became a
Muslim. He observed the tenets of his new
faith more rigidly than the Arabs
themselves did. As a trader, he polished
his knowledge of Arabic and its dialects
until he could speak them perfectly with
the ease of a native of the land of
Arabia.
In the meantime, his friendship with the king
brought him additional responsibilities.
Abdullah became the finance minister to
King Ibn Saud. The king’s palace of Jeddah
was placed at his disposal and his
friendship with the king was now placed on
a permanent basis. The two men had
understood each other perfectly, respected
each other’s intellect, recognized in one
another qualities of greatness, reserve,
and tolerance. Both of them were men of
few words.
Ibn Saud was a
man of high ideals and strict principles.
He sincerely believed in the Holy Qur’an
and followed it in both the letter and
spirit. Smoking and drinking were
abhorrent to him. He set high standards of
morality on himself and those around him.
The king had mastered the art of
self-discipline, a quality that helped him
to impose order and discipline on others.
He possessed a quality of peace and
majesty that made others look towards him
for leadership. All these qualities
appealed strongly to a man of Abdullah’s
character.
Abdullah as John Philby had for a long
time, cherished a deep desire to explore
the wild desert land of Southern Arabia
known to the Arabs as Rub al-Khali. He
wanted to be the first man to cross this
wide stretch of ‘dead’ wilderness in the
desert, where even the animals living
there died of thirst and starvation, and
where even the carrion could not penetrate
to pick on their bones. He did not know at
that time the events that led to his
adopting Arabia, as his homeland would
have a direct bearing upon the grand
journey across Rub al-Khali, which would
take place in the year 1932.
King Ibn Saud |
As John Philby, he had established for himself a
reputation of sorts as a great traveler
when he had crossed Arabia from the
Persian Gulf to the Red Sea at the end
of the First World War. At that time,
his journey had helped him map
unexplored territories in Arabia, which
had been hitherto left as unknown blanks
in the map of Arabia. He had made the
crossing from the sea to sea across
Arabia within forty-four days.
He had heard people talk about the desert of Rub
al-Khali and its strange legends. Stories
that reached him told him of a mysterious
ruin in the heart of this desert and a
great block of iron, as big as a camel
that was present there. These stories
served as a fuel to his imagination and
developed in him a deep yearning, an
insatiable desire to explore the ruins of
the long forgotten city in the desert-
remains of the distant past- that would
perhaps tell a story about Arabia’s past,
which nobody had yet come across.
Haji Abdullah had made him home in Jeddah living
at the fringe of the great desert, which
he hoped to conquer some day. But, he knew
this was not going to happen in a day. It
required careful study and constant
planning. He waited by the green waters of
the Red Sea thinking about the expedition
across Rub al-Khali. His reversion to
Islam, had given him the peace of mind
that he had long sought for and had
developed in him a better understanding of
the land of Arabia and its people along
with the determination to see his mission
to the very end.
In the meantime, his friendship with the
king of Arabia grew. He would meet him on
a daily basis and spoke to him frequently
of his ambition to be the first man of
modern times to cross the desert of Rub
al-Khali. It was not until 1930 that the
king Ibn Saud gave his assent to this
expedition. Ibn Saud saw in him an
instrument to help him map and investigate
his great Empire that covered vast tracts
of unknown desert lands.
Abdullah’s joy knew no bounds. The expedition
became his sole obsession. There were
delays and disappointments. The
disappointment came in the form of Bertram
Thomas, who had crossed the Rub al-Khali
from the other side on March 6,
1931. However, there was still hope, for
Thomas had not crossed the terrible gravel
plain of Abu Bahr, which was in the very
heart of the dead country.
In the month of December, sitting in the parlor
of King Ibn Saud, Abdullah heard the magic
words that he had longed to hear for a
long time now. The King had given him the
permission to travel across the Empty
Quarter. Abdullah lost no time; he
immediately set forth to Hofuf to make the
final preparations for the journey. For a
fortnight after that, he stayed in al-Hassa
district mapping it and making notes in
his dairy, while word was sent out
everywhere to summon the necessary people
who would accompany Abdullah on this trip.
The D-day soon arrived. The camels,
guides, and a small party of friends had
gathered at the wells of Dulaiqiya on
January 6 1932 to wish them farewell. It
was a dismal farewell, for none among them
ever hoped to see him alive again. It was
a cold, raw morning and there was a low
fog hanging over the landscape. The fog
blotted out everything beyond two hundred
yards. A few minutes after 9 a.m.
Abdullah’s small cavalcade of cars swung
out into the desert passing through the
Victory Gate by which King Ibn Saud had
made his triumphant entry into Hofuf after
the surrender of the Turkish Garrison in
the year 1913. After a few minutes,
Abdullah and his companions had passed out
of sight of those who had come to see him
off. The great adventure across the Empty
Quarter had begun.
(To be
continued) |