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Socotra
– just the word is like a siren’s call – along with
place names like Ouagadougou and Singaradja.
The offshore islands of Yemen, that besides Socotra also
include Abd el Kuri, Samhah and Darsah, have been for a
long time practically unreachable destination. They were
only accessible by boat, but getting permission to do
even that was all but impossible. In the last decade
travel to the Socotra archipelago has become slightly
easier, but until now only a few privileged people have
actually visited this unique place.
Located between Africa and Arabia, 250 km from cape
Guardafui in Somalia and 1000 km from Aden on the coast
of Yemen, the islands were long known to the sailors
that plied the routes from Africa to India. Socotra,
known to the ancient Greeks as Dioscorides and to the
Indians as ‘dvipa sukhatara’ (the island of happiness),
is the largest of the islands group. It is about 130 by
40 km in size with a 1400-1700 m high mountain range as
its highest elevation. The climate is dry, even though
there are two monsoon seasons.
The island separated from Africa some 6 million years
ago. Many species of plants and reptiles were isolated
from the rest of the world for so long that they are now
endemics. That means that they occur nowhere else in the
world except on Socotra.
Of the 850 plant species recorded on the archipelago,
one third is endemic and more plants are being
discovered all the time. A number of these endemic
species are the remains of ancient flora that
disappeared long ago from the African continent.
During a recent botanical expedition by botanists
Anthony Miller and Diccon Alexander of the Royal
Botanical Gardens in Edinburgh, 15 plant species new to
science were discovered, including a new frankincense
tree, a new hibiscus and a tiny carnivorous plant, which
grew on moist tree trunks in the higher reaches of the
central mountains.
One of the endemic plants that Socotra is famous for is
the Dragon’s blood tree (Dracaena cinnabari),
so called because any injury to the bark results in the
secretion of a dark red sap. But there are many more
unusual plants to be found, such as bracken (Pteridium
aquilinum), a plant usually associated with cold
climates and the only member of the cucumber family that
grows to tree size (Dendrosicyos sokotrana)
as well as trees known also from the Arabian mainland,
such as the bottle tree or desert rose (Adenium
obesum) and myrrh trees (Commiphora spp.).
All the reptiles of Socotra are endemic apart from a few
types of house geckos. Even chameleons can be found
doing their slow dances in tangled bushes. The endemic
chameleon is called Chameleo monachus and
can assume brilliant colours.
Of the 140 or so species of birds that have been
recorded, 6 species, a.o. the Socotra Bunting,
Socotra starling and Socotra sunbird, occur
nowhere else. The ubiquitous Egyptian vulture is
locally known as Al Baladiya Socotri (the
Socotran municipal waste service) for its habit of
cleaning up carrion and other waste products.
Even the insects have developed uniquely – they have
smaller wings than usual, which prevent them from being
blown out to sea by the persistent monsoon winds.
Spiders that weave huge webs and 20 cm long centipedes
are probably only popular with true nature buffs.
Mammals are in short supply, with only a few species of
bat and one species of genet (a cat-like arboreal
animal) living there. However, the marine habitat is
rich and varied with many species of whales and dolphins
like Sperm whales, Pilot whales, Spinner and
Bottle-nosed dolphins having been spotted close to
shore. Some of the smaller islands in the archipelago
are now nature reserves, where crystal clear water
guarantees a wonderful diving experience.
The variety in landscapes provides the visitor with
exciting hikes and discovery trips. There are coastal
plains around emerald lagoons and sinkholes with shrubs
and low trees. Qalansiyya on the western tip of the
island has pure white beaches and crystal clear water,
while on the opposite tip called Ras Momi there are even
snow-white dunes.
More inland, low hills and steep escarpments lead to
high limestone plateaux, where the Dragon’s blood trees
as well as aloës, and carallumas grow. The desert rose
Adenium obesum is so successful that has formed
real forests.
Permanent streams tumble down the sides of the Granite
Mountains of the Haghir massif and are home to fresh
water fish and crabs.
Each of the habitats has its own vegetation and harbours
special plant communities.
Only fifteen years ago some 15.000 inhabitants of the
islands lived only from fishing and pearling. Since then
the population has more than doubled. On account of the
dry climate and poor soil, agriculture is limited to the
growing of dates and a few vegetables and spices. The
fishing grounds are rich and provide the islanders with
both, food and a little extra income. The inhabitants of
the coastal areas are of African origin while the
mountain people of the inner regions are of Arab
descent. In the fishing villages on the eastern part of
the islands an ancient South-Arabian language (‘mahri’)
is still spoken.
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Future Tours Industries |
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POB 1203, Sana'a - Republic of Yemen |
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e-mail: info@ftiyemen.com , FTI@y.net.y |
The unique nature of the islands has led the Yemeni
government to pay special attention to its conservation.
A zoning plan has been developed that allows for
long-term protection of the natural diversity while
providing at the same time sustainable services for the
needs of the 35.000 Socotrans that now live permanently
on the islands. This plan is currently being examined by
the European Union in order to decide about the
designation of the islands as a World Heritage Site or
Biosphere reserve.
Access to the islands has become easier with the
establishment of an airport. Flights by Yemenia airlines
leave the Yemeni capital Sana’a every Friday at 5 am to
fly to Socotra via Mukalla. This flight takes a little
over two hours and there are flights from nearby Aden
too.
Tickets bought locally are quite expensive but when you
book from abroad (for instance from Paris) it is
possible to have a return flight for around 600 Euros.
Still, tourism is quite limited and the infrastructure
for tourists is very basic. In the capital town Hadiboh,
situated on the north coast of the island, overnight
stays are in small ‘funduks’ (family hotels) where the
facilities are simple but adequate. Restaurants usually
have just two items on the menu: chicken and fish, the
latter being freshly caught each day. During the trips
inland camping is the only way to go unless you have
local friends who can put you up. The Darwin research
station will provide overnight stays for visiting
scientists. Four-wheel drive vehicles with drivers can
be hired to do your own exploration. The island is
extremely safe. No one bothers to lock doors of houses
or cars and your belongings are safe wherever you leave
them.
A Yemen-based tour company called Future Tours
Industries offers various adventure trips with the
caution that “those requiring western comforts should
beware – nothing truly rewarding in life comes without
effort and a little sacrifice!”
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