In from the cold
The Arabian Desert may be a far cry from the icey wilderness of northern
Europe, but as David Williams found out, there are plenty of
Scandinavians who have swapped snow shoes for sun cream to call the UAE
home
The Scandinavians are a truly nomadic race. Most countries of the world
have a small but influential community from the northern European
region, and the Middle East is certainly no different.
Archeological records show that the notorious Viking onslaught of Europe
spilled as far south as Baghdad some 1100 years ago and, while there's
nothing to back this up, many believe they may have even advanced
further into the GCC before being beaten back by the deserts and the
searing heat.
The Scandinavian presence in the Middle East, although you may not
realise it, is everywhere, with the region benefiting from the
technological breakthroughs introduced by the Nordic race.
Two of Scandinavia's biggest exporters are now household names here,
while expertise in the oil industry has resulted in many Scandinavians,
particularly from Norway, landing prime jobs in the GCC's oil industry.
Mobile phone giants Nokia and Ericsson hail from Finland and Sweden
respectively and they now dominate one of the most lucrative industries
in the Middle East. Statistics show that there are more phones per head
of population in some Arab countries than in many western countries, and
it will not be long before a piece of northern Europe will be carried
around in a majority of pockets and handbags in the UAE.
The Scandinavians are also one of the most popular races of people of
the modern age too. Their love of life and travel comes to the fore when
you speak to many of them whatever their age, and that is no different
whether you encounter one in the freezing temperatures of Oslo, or the
boiling heat of Dubai.
Katarina Premfors is one such Swedish 25 year-old with a love of life
and travel that is typical of so many Scandinavians her age. While many
Europeans talk and dream of travel, Katarina, and many like her, have
actually gone and experienced it.
"I love the challenge of arriving in a new country and finding my feet,"
said Katarina, who is what many would describe as 'typical looking
Swede' with long natural blonde hair and what seems to be a permanent,
welcoming smile.
Having been born in Sweden, Katarina left here homeland at the age of 12
and was schooled in Pakistan to "learn English". Spells in Turkey and
the USA followed before she got her first taste of Dubai at the age of
18.
"My parents had come out here to live so I decided to see what it was
like," she said. "I came out on holiday for 10 days and I am still here
seven years later."
That time has not been spent entirely in the UAE. She spent 1995 in
England and five months of 1998 in France, but she is now building a
career in Dubai as a photographer for one of the top agencies called The
Studio, based in the Courtyard on Sheikh Zayed Road.
"There seems to be so many opportunities for young people to build a
career in Dubai. I am doing work now that I don't believe I would be
doing at my age if I was living somewhere else. I am very happy living
here at the moment and can't see myself leaving in the near future."
Katarina says she loves the unpredictability of living in the Middle
East: "In Sweden you get into a routine and know what to expect week to
week, but over here something always takes you by surprise. You never
know what is going to spring up next. Life in Arabia is certainly a
little bit different!
"I have lived in so many countries of the world and every one has its
own local community followed by various foreign communities. Dubai is so
different because it is made up of so many different nationalities all
living with each other. You come across many different cultures living
in Dubai. It is without doubt one of the most cosmopolitan places in the
world because you encounter various aspects of life."
It is difficult to put an accurate figure on the number of Scandinavians
living in Dubai, a rough estimate would probably be less than 1000, but
those that are here hold key positions in multi-national companies.
While a consulate does exist in Dubai, the Swedish embassy in Abu Dhabi
was surprisingly closed down last year and the nearest is located these
days in Kuwait. "It shocks me to think there is no embassy here when you
consider the rate at which the city is growing. Maybe it will return in
the future," she said.
While Katarina has adjusted to every day life in the emirates with
consummate ease, she says fellow Scandinavians should fully research the
area before making a move to the Middle East.
"Find out about life here before hand," she warns. "It's a little bit
different here and could surprise someone who is not prepared. You have
to be ambitious and determined if you are to do well and being a woman
in a male-dominated career, you sometimes have to prove a lot more to be
recognised. I think being blond helps me get away with it sometimes!"
Katarina's main grumbles about the UAE are the same as most other
people... traffic. "People are so irresponsible on the roads out here,
which are very dangerous compared to back home."
Despite being well travelled, and well prepared for the unexpected,
Katarina still fell foul of red tape when she was on a photo shoot.
Having acquired the necessary documentation to be able to shoot
satellite dishes at Jebel Ali, she was still held in police custody for
two hours by one suspecting member of the local constabulary who thought
he may have apprehended a spy!
"It was all sorted out eventually and I have to say that the police were
very nice," she recalls. "The policeman at the end of the day was
carrying out his job and was well within his rights to check me out."
The UAE enjoys its fair share of tourism dollars too from Scandinavia,
and one market that has also done well in the 1990s is the incoming
travel from the business, conference and incentive sector.
Eva Premfors runs a small family business which arranges conference and
incentive travel to the UAE from Denmark, Sweden and Norway, and also
makes similar arrangements for companies, particularly Scandinavian,
already based here.
Having arrived in Dubai in 1990, Eva, and her husband Kent, experienced
the aftermath of the Gulf War and several years of finding their feet
before getting their company, Leisure Time, established in this
fluctuating market.
"For us, our business has grown because a lot of businesses in this
field went bankrupt," she said. "We concentrated on being a small family
business while others went for much bigger things and wasted too much
money.
"It's very tough in Dubai to get established. We've been here for nine
years and it took us seven years to get to the position we are in today.
There is a lot of hard work to be done to be successful in Dubai. We
don't have weekends because Europe works on Thursdays and Fridays and
then the Middle East opens again on a Saturday."
Eva first came to Dubai on a short break with her husband in 1989 while
they were living in Turkey, and they later promoted the emirate through
an airline they helped to set up in their native country.
"We were getting two full planes to Dubai every week so it was becoming
quite a popular place to visit back then," she recalls.
Despite missing the "trees, mushrooms, and blueberries" of home, and
making the popular complaint about driving in the UAE, Eva says she is
settled here and points out the balcony in her office as one of the many
luxuries she would not get back home.
"I am also very lucky because I have my two daughters, a son and a
grandchild all living here too," she said. "While most people have to
travel thousands of miles to be with their families, my grandchild is
only five minutes up the road. I can look forward to spending Christmas
with all my family around me and not have to go anywhere."
One thing that particularly annoys Eva about Dubai is the state of the
beaches.
She said: "The police should go down to the beaches on a Thursday when
people are having barbecues and warn them. If people leave their rubbish
behind, they should be fined. It's such a shame to see how dirty some
beaches become."
Scandinavians have a great command of the English language and speak it
better in many instances than the natives themselves, and Petr Larsson
has made a career out of it by teaching English in Dubai.
The 32 year-old Norwegian has been here for the past year and has
decided to settle after spending the previous four years travelling the
world.
"I passed through 31 countries when I was travelling and the UAE was by
far the best I went to," he said. "The generosity of the people, no
matter what their nationality was, struck me more than anything else. I
intend to stay here a couple of years at least because I love the
climate, my job and not paying taxes is also pretty neat!"
Petr teaches English to mainly young Arabic children and says they are
quick to learn.
"Most of them already know they want to go to school and college in the
UK when they are older and are determined to learn the language early.
The parents are very supportive too because they want their children to
take advantage of opportunities they probably never had."